 Destination Mexico started out as a six-day trip to Puerto Vallarta and turned into five years in and around Guadalajara. Guad, unfortunately, is a long way from being a tourist mecca. Once you get past its highlights (one to two days, depending on how fast you move) it's just another big dirty city with severe air pollution problems. Rampant inflation, serious global warming, and uncontrolled population growth have taken their toll, though if you look you'll still find evidence of the colonial glory that drew hordes of ex-pat Canadians and Americans. One of the best things about Guadalajara is its proximity to other places, especially the beach. Three hours from Guad on very good highways (yes, Virginia, Mexico has several good roads) takes you to Manzanillo; another half hour or so and you're in Melaque, a largely unspoiled tropical paradise where doing absolutely nothing is simply de rigeur. Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan are far enough north to justify flight, the only sore point being that it will take longer to get to the aeropuerto than you'll spend in the air. If ruins are your thing, Teotihuacan, the massive site just north of Mexico City is not to be missed. Its two huge pyramids are largely intact, and many of the old buildings have been reconstructed. Health permitting, a climb to the top of either pyramid will give a breathtaking (pun intended) overview of the ancient city, and during the tourist season there's an after-dark light show. If ruins are your thing, Teotihuacan...is not to be missed. The Pyramid of the Sun is the largest of Teotihuacan's structures, though standing as it does at the end of the long, arrow-straight Avenida de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead), the Pyramid of the Moon may be the more compelling. Allow two days absolute bare minimum to see Teotihuacan. Hats and sturdy walking shoes are essential for all but the very foolish; water bottles recommended. Another ruin, considerably smaller but impressive nevertheless is the site at Tula, two-to-three hours from Mexico City. More easily reached from Pachuca, the capital of Hidalgo state, Tula also has two pyramids. Neither is anywhere near the size of those in Teotihuacan, but one boasts towering statues called atlantas at its peak, and a long stone barricade known as the Serpent Wall is beautifully preserved. Drives of one to two hours from Guadalajara will take you to numerous mountain villages, one of which - Tapalpa - has Swiss-style buildings around its town square. Not far from Tapalpa on one of the worst roads in North America is the only waterfall I saw in my five years in Mexico...and it was gorgeous. Not far from Tapalpa on one of the worst roads in North American is the only waterfall I saw in my five years in Mexico... An hour southeast of Guad is Lake Chapala where you'll find hordes of both U.S. and Canadian expats living in the villages of Ajijic and Chapala. The Nueva Posada (New Inn), a lovely little hotel owned and run by the Eager family, ex of Canada, overlooks the lake in Ajijic. Headquarters for the international art exporter Billy Moon are just outside town; visitors welcome. Yeah, I know there's an east coast, too, but except for one ill-fated plane trip (which is a whole other story) I just never got there. Hey, I had to leave something for my next flight from reality! FAQs About Mexico Herself Overall Herself at Leisure Herself in Mexico Herself - Her Resume Home Page Back to Top |
 View from our Casita  Melaque Beach  Pyramid of the Sun  Temple Detail  Parrot at Nueva Posada |
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